Eleuthera , Bahamas

The Bahamas is an archipelago of 700 islands. Eleuthera sits on the outer ridge of Nassau---one of the main islands in the mix. It is about 100 miles long with one road that runs through it--so there's no getting lost.

It has an authentic feel of being preserved in time. There is a lot of undeveloped land consumed by a blend of scrub pines, palm trees, and beautiful indigenous plants that I've yet to identify.

Never in a million years would I have thought to book a vacation to this remote island. Our girls' weekend is always in Key West. But this year one of us girls was getting married. And her destination wedding led us off the beaten path. There are so many things to love (and one thing to hate) about Eleuthera...so, here we go:

WE LOVE The People

Me and my travel companions--Tracy and Michelle--- took a direct flight from Miami to Eleuthera, a fairly new phenomenon since American Airlines started this leg last fall. Until then, getting to the big 'E' meant stopping in Nassau and hopping on a puddle jumper or taking a ferry--- or, so I'm told. So we thought we were so smart. Until we realized we flew into North Eleuthera and our hotel was an hour away in Governor's Harbour.  But, we were in vacation mode, so no worries. We found the coolest cab driver, named Edward, and asked him to show us the sights. But first, find us some beer...and so he did.

 

 

Driving on the left side of the road is a bit off-putting for me, as provincial as I am. But Edward took us to the local liquor store--- consisting of a few bottles of rum and vodka sitting on a sparse shelf, and a refrigerator half full of the local beers including Sands and Kalik. We tried both local brands. I liked the Kalik, Tracy and Michelle liked the Sands. And, by my second beer,  I didn't mind that I was on the wrong side of the road. We passed a lot of land and then Lenny Kravitz's house (Edward told us), and suddenly I had to ask: "How much is the real estate here?" Edward said you can get a nice ocean side lot of land for about $40,000 and build a house for another $100,000.

 In addition, Edward said, there is little crime in Eleuthera. Michelle and I looked at each other and nodded. An affordable and safe place for single ladies! We had found our paradise and we were ready to buy....until...we'll get to that later.

So, we're driving to the hotel and I'm slightly nervous that we are drinking openly in the car.  I kept asking Edward, 'Is this okay?'. To which he'd respond, "Oh, yeah. Relax. You're in the Bahamas, baby." I took his advice, and Edward became our very first Bahamian friend.

 

 

                                                                          

 

About halfway to our hotel, Edward pulled over to show us the sight of "The Glass Window Bridge" also referred to as "the narrowest place on earth". This man-made bridge took the place of naturally formed rock destroyed in a hurricane. When you stand there, you see the magnificent dark and somewhat angry Atlantic ocean contrasted by the calm turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea, all separated by about ten feet of concrete. Awesome!

 

 

 

Edward continued to tell us about his life on the island. He grew up there, has many brothers and sisters, his mom is still there with him. He's married. And loyal, I'm sure. But a note on that: ask a Bahamian man if he's married and he'll say "only during the week."  ;-)

Edward took us to the supermarket to stock up on food for the weekend. But not much was there. I'm assuming many people live off the land. Farming and fishing. The island is a tight-knit community. For example, on Friday nights everyone gathers in Governor's Harbour for the weekly fish fry, where the catch of the day is served up amid music and kids playing games. We were invited to attend, and would have gone had we not had Kathy's rehearsal dinner to go to that night.

...Anyway, back to the shopping experience. While there was not much to choose from, I was able to gather some chips---no dip or salsa, and I think some Kraft American cheese (single wraps), beer, wine, and a cooler and ice, which must have been a tip-off to the girl behind the cash register who said to me, "You just reached?"

"Huh?"

She repeated.

"I'm sorry?"

She repeated.

"I don't understand."

"You just got here?" she clarified.

Oh, right! "Yes. I reached."

Local lingo. Learn it.

We arrived at Pineapple Fields, our hotel, and we were very excited to see our friends, Pam and Laura, who had already checked in. The accommodations were nice enough: kitchen, living room, two bedrooms, two bathrooms, but very basic. There was a small pool, but really no extras that one would expect on vacation. For example, don't think you're getting a massage by the beach. Ain't happenin'. And, if you travel here, make sure you have the international plan with your wireless carrier. My phone didn't work all weekend (which was not necessarily a bad thing). The hotel did have wireless Internet access, however.

Step outside, and you know you're not in the States anymore. The tip off being the wild dogs that wander everywhere. They're cute, in a mangy sort of way,  until they start chasing you during your morning jog.  Or, camping out next to you during meal time, laying on the guilt. They are skinny and have heavy, sad eyes. You'd have to be really heartless to not give them them part of your lunch. But bring extra money to support the local puppy population, because at Tippy's,  the only place to eat near Pineapple Fields, a grouper sandwich is $28....these poor homeless dogs are getting some expensive chow.

The best thing about Pineapple Fields, I must say, is Tippy's, the restaurant/bar across the street.

 

                                                       

 

 That's where we were for lunch everyday, and one great dinner (thank you Bud and Eleanor). And, I hear Tippy's has great bands on Saturday nights. We would have joined the Saturday night party, but we had a wedding to attend that evening--- at Cocodimama.

 Cocodimama

Before I get to Cocodimama, I want to be sure you know about Sky Beach Club. If I return to Eleuthera I will stay at the Sky Beach Club. It's individual units are modern, spacious, and private. A personal concierge will pre-stock the kitchen with the food and beverages of your choice, and set you up on a fishing trip or get the jet skis ready. In addition, there is a great restaurant, a swim up bar with live music. Ahhh, hedonism is good in my book.

 

 

 

I would also stay at Cocodimama. Pineapple Fields is not a bad place, it just feels like you are in the middle of nowhere (on an island in the middle of nowhere).

Cocodimama, on the other hand, is a brand new resort that maintains the laid back vibe of the island while providing a beautiful dining deck and top-notch cuisine.  The colors are tropical and fun, and the staff is so helpful and friendly. Love the grass umbrellas and relaxing lounge chairs on the beach!

 

                                                                              

 

 

Sammy, the bartender--- is one of our faves.

 

 

 

There's just one thing WE HATE: The Bugs

Overall, I enjoyed Eleuthera, including the people, the beaches, the feeling that you have no worries while on the island. Except there's one little thing: the no see 'ems that attack at dusk and don't withdraw until the light of day. We were all covered in bug bites. When we returned from our trip we were still itching. And, a few days later, back in Massachusetts (and Atlanta), Pam, Tracy, and Laura wound up in emergency rooms as their bodies had allergic reactions to those little buggers. (what the hell were those things, anyway???)

As a result, Michelle and I are rethinking our vacation home investment in Eleuthera. The bugs are a bummer. Plus, this island has an extremely different lifestyle from what we are used to. While we like laid back, it is way laid back, perhaps too much so for these two South Shore women. Those that have grown up on the island love it there, and I'm sure they've designed a wonderful life for themselves, but there really isn't anything to do unless you love to fish, snorkel and bike all day. I do think I'd have a bit of island fever if I were there too long!  I will, however, consider going back for another visit. It is a beautiful place to go if you need an escape!

Next girls trip, however, its back to The Pier House in Key West!

If you want more info/opinions on the island of Eleuthera, feel free to e-mail us! And, for a bit of a different perspective, read our blog, Survivor: Eleuthera Island.

 

                                                  

 

 

 

 

By Stephanie Neil

Stephanie Neil is a journalist. Her business, technology, and human interest stories have appeared in a variety of print and online newspapers and magazines including eWeek, Managing Automation, The Harvard Alumni Bulletin, Huggies Baby Network, South Shore Woman, and The Boston Globe.  She lives on the South Shore with her two kids, two cats, and a dog. Contact info: stephanieneil@comcast.net  or 781-378-1652. Follow her on Twitter @StephanieNeil

Please login to post your comments.

Comments(1):

1. Your Bahama trip

   Hey Steph, I love your stories! You should consider writing a book on all the travels you have had...will have...you really know how to get hold of the reader and keep them wanting more! Love ya, Madeline

   Thursday, May 27, 2010 MADELINE