We can put a man on the moon and find cures for disease, so why is it so difficult for a woman to find a pair of pants that fit?  I hear the same complaint almost every day.  Most women are in the same, frustrating position.  Have you ever had a friend recommend her favorite jeans because the fit is amazing, only to find that you can’t get them over your thighs or you need a noose to eliminate the gap around the waist?  This scenario leaves you screeching from the dressing room and more frustrated than you were before you started.  Everyone has a part of their body that they are not happy with or that is considered a problem area.  Two friends can weigh the same, but be built very differently resulting in completely different fit needs. The task is to learn how to work with your so-called “flaws” and dress to accentuate the positive. 

It will be a bit easier to find the right fitting pant if you learn to recognize and understand your body type.  You need to determine your needs before you tackle any shopping assignment.  Your Body Type is a general description or your shape and how you carry your weight (regardless of whether you are carrying a little extra).  You cannot change your body type (believe me I’ve tried), you must accept it and move on.  A body type is most easily categorized into two distinct groups; Apples and Pears.

The Apple generally has narrow hips, slim legs, an undefined waist and possibly a flatter behind.  The Apple is also described as having an athletic or boyish figure.  The Pear, also called “bottom-heavy”, has a slender neck, narrow shoulders, shapely waist, generous lower hips and full thighs.  Also important in the search for fit is understanding your torso length.  Having a short torso, or being short-waisted, is recognized as having less room in the mid-section and common to be thicker in the middle.  A short torso often, not always, coincides with an apple shape.  A long torso, or being long-waisted, has more room in the midsection.

A few suggestions that may help with your body type…

If you are an apple…you actually have a figure made for stylish pants.  The choice is yours, as most styles will work.  A low-rise pant or jean (sits at or just below the hip) with a boot cut will work well and elongate your waist.  The newer Trouser pant and jean will look fabulous on you.  Leave the hem a bit longer, wear them with a slight heel, and you will look taller and leaner than you can imagine.

If you are a pear…wear flowing fabrics to de-emphasize hips and a bootleg or slight flare to help balance the ample hip and thigh area.  No pleats, ever, across your widest parts.  (Why would a designer create pleats adding bulk to our bellies?)  Stay away from a higher waist, big butts can become bigger (yikes!).  A wide waistband creates the illusion of a smaller one.

If you have a short torso… snug waistbands or a pant rise too high or too low will create the dreaded “muffin top”.  Always a fashion “don’t”.

If you have a long torso…low rise pants may be too low and you risk exposing more than you care to.  The longer tops and tunics that are popular now are your friend.  They cover any unwanted gaps and help camouflage the long middle.

For all body types...

Avoid pants that are too tight.  Not only are they uncomfortable, they accentuate figure flaws.  Remember, we are trying to hide these flaws.  Your ego may not want you to go up a size, but I guarantee the pant will be more flattering and you will look like you’ve lost weight.  If the size tag really bothers you, tear it out, nobody will know.

Don’t be discouraged!!  No two pairs of pants are alike.  They all must be tried on.  If you are searching for jeans, the washing and fading process can change the fit and size you wear.  It is best to try pants on when you are not distracted by time, children or your cell phone (unless you need to phone a friend for emotional support).  Wearing the correct undergarments will help you get a better feel for the fit.

A monochromatic outfit (dark top, dark bottom) will create a lean and flattering look.  Dark bottoms are always our friends.

Flap back pockets can work for all body types, they can enhance a flatter behind and camouflage a fuller one.

Almost all pants need to be tailored or hemmed.  (I believe the designers and tailors of this world are in a get-rich-together scheme.)  If you find the right fitting pant except for the length, BUY IT, or buy two for that matter.  Find a seamstress that will alter using the original hem and you won’t lose the stylish look of the pant.  Always wash and dry the item (if that is how you will care for it in the future) before it is altered. 

In the end, the ultimate goal is to accept your body type, shop to enhance the positives and celebrate your personal victory when you find the perfect pant.  I didn’t say it was going to be easy.  If it’s important to you, then it’s worth a little extra effort.  Good Luck!

By Kathleen Sullivan

Kathleen Sullivan, a self proclaimed lifelong lover of clothes, lives in Marshfield and works as the manager and buyer for The Clothes Line in Scituate.  With several years experience in retail, Kathleen applies a sharp fashion sense to help women of all sizes, shapes, and attitudes discover their own personal style.