On a brisk November evening, just a week before Thanksgiving, four South Shore women sat in a cozy corner of The Fieldston restaurant, a place we quickly realized was one of Marshfield's hidden gems.

We sat in a room just off the bar, accented by lace curtains, and an earthy Oriental rug perfectly positioned in front of the roaring fireplace. The wine was poured and the conversations flowed all around us, emitting the kind of ambience that makes you feel right at home. In fact, I think every guest  dining on  "Jack Daniels, fall of the bone, baby back ribs" or "baked crabmeat stuffed sole over lobster flavored risotto", probably felt the same way we did-like we were having dinner in the comfort of a friend's house.

That feeling is reinforced when Jan Perrin-- in black T-shirt and chef pants-- emerges from the kitchen to say hello to his guests. Perrin, who has owned The Fieldston for 15 years, has a loyal following of diners who wouldn't miss Italian night on Wednesday, or "Clean Out the Kitchen" Sundays, when Perrin serves up what is leftover from Saturday's menu at a discounted price-which is a steal, considering most regular entrees are only in the $15-to-$20 range.

But we came for the appetizers: "Succulent Maryland crab cakes on a bed of mixed greens with a red pepper relish drizzled with aged balsamic", "Grilled pizza with chicken, mozzarella, provolone, parmesan, tomatoes, basil, scallions, roasted garlic, and virgin olive oil", and "Sweet sauté of scallops and artichokes with a Grand Marnier tarragon cream sauce"-a best seller that's been on the menu since the restaurant opened.

What I really wanted was the homemade hummus which everyone raves about. It seemed odd that there was cranberry bread on the table to be dipped in a garlic spread, but these chefs have eccentric palates, and, after a taste, I had to comment that it was surprisingly sweet for hummus. Later, when we had a chance to talk more with Jan, we found out that it was not hummus at all, rather, pumpkin butter.

"I ran out of hummus," Perrin says without flinching. "I made pumpkin butter because I needed something to go on the bread."

And that's the way he works. A self-taught chef who has been cooking in The Fieldston kitchen for nine years, he applies resourceful certainty to his culinary process. He doesn't waste anything-- using what he has in the kitchen at the time-- and is confident in his freestyle approach. "Don't be afraid to do it," is his motto.

That's a far cry from his first moments in the kitchen when he couldn't turn on the Cuisinart food processor. But, he had no choice. He went through 10 chefs in the first seven years of business, most of which would last about three months on the job. Chefs can be a bit temperamental, it turns out. One day, one decided to go fishing rather than show up for the summer rush. Perrin had to close the restaurant-blaming a faulty air conditioning unit-and knowing he had to take matters into his own hands.

"I either had to learn how to cook, or sell the place," he says. He chose the cooking route, and why wouldn't he? He's not afraid to take chances in life...that's how he stumbled into the restaurant business in the first place.

A Weymouth native, Perrin lived in Western Massachusetts for a few years working as a special education teacher and speech therapist. He came back to the South Shore, dabbled in computers for awhile, and then accidently got involved in the catering business. Once he felt he knew the food industry, he was ready to open a restaurant.

Creative Cuisine

The Fieldston, a former boathouse, abuts Marshfield's Fieldston Beach, which is good, and bad. Everyone likes to be near the ocean, but, Perrin notes that half of his demographic is water. To draw a steady stream of clients over 15 years-a rare feat in the competitive restaurant industry--- Perrin has had to be imaginative with the menu.

He's even had to reinvent himself. "I never intended to be in the kitchen," he says.

In this business, however, you have to be innovative and agile. When he took over the cooking duties, Perrin relied on recipes. Now he creates his own original food concepts, works from memory, and most importantly, uses the ingredients that are available.

"People tell me they love my spaghetti sauce and that I should bottle it, but I can't because it always tastes a little different," Perrin says. "Ninety percent of the time I use the exact same ingredients, but if I don't have a bottle of red wine open, I might use marsala. And I always use basil, but maybe I see some tarragon."

So, you never know. One thing is for sure, however, the food is always delicious and the price is right. And, if you get on the Fieldston mailing list, you will be the first to find out about the special dinners Perrin frequently provides.

While the atmosphere is warm and welcoming in the winter (especially in the 'fireplace room' where we sat on our evening out), the summer sizzles at The Fieldston's Reflections patio, an enclosed porch decorated with mirrors and pictures on the ceiling of recognizable scenes from local photographers.

Perrin has taken extra care to add his personal touch to this rustic restaurant. Over the years it has shifted and reshaped to provide what patrons want. "When I first opened I thought I would have a Boston-style restaurant in Marshfield," Perrin recalls. He wanted to simply run the restaurant and work the room. Had he stuck with that plan, he'd probably be closed by now. "We had to adapt." Part of his adaptation has been renovating the upstairs as his own personal space. Yes, he lives over the restaurant.

So, if you come to The Fieldston, get comfortable, meet the owner, and feel like you are having dinner at a friend's house, well, you kind of are!

The Fieldston Restaurant
882 Ocean Street (Rte. 139)
Marshfield MA 02050
781-834-2909

www.thefieldston.com

By Stephanie Neil

Stephanie Neil is a journalist. Her business, technology, and human interest stories have appeared in a variety of print and online newspapers and magazines including eWeek, Managing Automation, The Harvard Alumni Bulletin, Huggies Baby Network, South Shore Woman, and The Boston Globe.  She lives on the South Shore with her two kids, two cats, and a dog. Contact info: stephanieneil@comcast.net  or 781-378-1652. Follow her on Twitter @StephanieNeil